Pasta alla genovese
- Easy
- 4 h 40 min
Mario Stefanile ironically wrote that even in Naples, strangely, it gets cold in winter. The humble dishes that farmers used to restore themselves with were almost all concentrated flavors from the land. Simple escarole-based soups that accompany beans or potatoes, perfect for meeting the needs of energy and satiety. But every now and then, one could drink a cup of hot, so-called, octopus broth, which is still sold on the street to passersby wanting to warm up. And then there is another tradition, that of Neapolitan soffritto. It is certainly not the classic chopped vegetables, but a true soffritto of pieces of meat seasoned with tomato sauce, chili pepper, and bay leaf. Again, the protagonists are less noble cuts, those that some might dare to discard, losing out on the luxury of a preparation like this. To make Neapolitan soffritto, indeed, you use liver, lungs, spleen, heart, and some even add the trachea, which are all those parts that make up the so-called coratella. Stefanile continues, trying to reassure those who feel fear or awe towards Neapolitan soffritto, that this is a dish that brings nobility even to the humblest kitchens. Therefore, we decided to dust off the old cookbooks to recreate this ancient and truly tasty Neapolitan recipe. Once the Neapolitan soffritto is ready, all you have to do is choose whether to enjoy it on croutons, as a soup, or as a sauce for bucatini!
Don't miss out on another tasty Campanian first course: the Genovese!
To prepare Neapolitan soffritto, start by cutting the offal: cut the pieces of spleen, heart, liver, and lung into cubes of 1-1.5 inches (1-2-3).
Transfer everything into a bowl and rinse the pieces well under running water 4, then drain 5 and place on a tray with paper towels 6.
Pat the meat well with more paper towels to dry off excess water 7. At this point, place a saucepan on the stove and heat the oil together with the lard 8. As soon as the latter has melted and the bottom is sufficiently hot, plunge in the pieces of meat 9.
Stir and brown for 5 minutes 10 or until all the pieces have taken on color 11. In the meantime, pour the water into a bowl along with the concentrate 12
and mix well 13, then add to the saucepan 14 and stir. Also, pour in the tomato puree 15
and season with dried or fresh chili, in the quantity you prefer 16, and scent everything with bay leaf and rosemary 17; finally, adjust the salt 18.
Cover with the lid 19 and let everything cook over low heat for 2 hours 20. Then cook for another 30 minutes, but this time without a lid, so as to dry out the cooking liquid a bit... and here is your Neapolitan soffritto ready 21!